|
|
|
footwear choosing
and caring for outdoor footwear, socks and gaiters
| |
 |
|
There are a myriad of sandals, shoes and boots
available for trekking, mountaineering and adventure travel.
However, every foot is different, so choosing a boot or shoe that
has all the features you require is only half of the equation. The
other 50% involves making sure your footwear fits
comfortably.
If this is your first foray into the outdoor
footwear market, I hope that this booklet arms you with sufficent
information to begin your hunt for comfortable footwear with a
degree of confidence. When you’re ready to try some boots on, pop
into your nearest Cotswold store for advice and maybe a boot fitting
session with one of their specially trained staff in order to make
sure that you get the perfect fit.
As an ill-fitting pair of
boots can ruin your holiday of a lifetime, taking the time to select
the most appropriate footwear for your needs is always time well
spent. Enjoy your next adventure!
Paul Deegan
Paul is the author of the award-winning ‘The Mountain
Traveller’s Handbook’, published by the British Mountaineering
Council and available from Cotswold.
| |
|
multi-activity footwear
| |
boot construction |
|
From humble beginnings, adventure racing has
quickly established itself as a global outdoor pursuit, and footwear
manufacturers have not been slow in producing specific footwear for
customers who enjoy running, scrambling and abseiling across
demanding terrain. This type of multi-activity footwear is also used
by trail runners and walkers who prefer to travel fast and light
along long-distance footpaths.
Multi-activity footwear is
characterised by easily adjustable speed lacing, fast-wicking
synthetic fabric and mesh uppers (sometimes reinforced with suede
leather), as well as lightweight soles that offer good traction on a
variety of surfaces. A few designs also offer some ankle support,
although most are low cut like a training shoe for maximum freedom
of movement.
| |
|
Whilst shoe and boot styles differ to a greater
or lesser degree, all share at least some of the same
characteristics. It is worth taking a moment to learn about them, as
the components that go into making a typical piece of outdoor
footwear hold the key to understanding what individual boots and
shoes are designed for and how they will perform on various types of
terrain.
Every piece of footwear is built around a last. This
gives the boot its overall shape. Most boots feature a curved or
‘anatomic’ last. This helps to put a spring in your step as you push
off with the toe.
The removable insoles supplied with many
types of footwear are woeful, and offer very little support for the
feet. Unsurprisingly, many outdoor enthusiasts choose to invest in a
more supportive pair of insoles in order to obtain a better fit. You
can read more about this later in the booklet.
The midsole is
the beating heart of the boot. Lying under the insole, the midsole
dictates how stiff the boot is. A rigid boot is perfect for ice
climbing. By contrast, a boot that bends from heel to toe is ideal
for trail running. Semi-flexible boots are worn by many trekkers and
backpackers. Bear in mind that feet encased in very flexible
footwear have to work harder on rough terrain, which can lead to
foot fatigue. This is especially true if the boot cannot resist
lateral torsion (twisting from side to side), something that you can
discover for yourself when you are holding a shoe in your
hands.
The outer sole pattern should match the activity that
the boot is designed for. Likewise, the upper: leather is highly
water-resistant, whilst fabric is often lighter, more breathable but
less weatherproof and durable. Plastic is ideal for cold-weather and
high altitude mountaineering. Some boots are lined with
waterproof-breathable membranes, which help to keep feet dry in wet
conditions, but these inhibit breathability in warmer
weather.
Boots designed for scrambling often come supplied
with rubber rands, which improve performance in rock climbing
situations. These rubberised areas also protect the leather or
fabric upper from wear and tear. However, excessive amounts of
rubber will reduce the boot’s overall
breathability.
| |
|
sandals and trail
shoes | |
|
Once the preserve of the hippie generation,
sandals are now available for many different activities, from
trekking to river running. Some sandals boast good arch support for
your soles, as well as adjustability around the forefoot and heel in
order to guarantee a comfortable fit. If you are planning to use
your sandals in wet conditions (be it white-water rafting or taking
a shower in a hostel) opt for synthetic sandals: leather models are
more suited to dry-weather trekking. Some sandals have so much
support for the foot that the difference between them and
lightweight trail shoes is very small indeed.
Trail shoes
generally offer more foot support than sandals, not least when it
comes to cooking on BBQs at a campsite; spilling hot fat on bare
feet is no laughing matter. They also offer a significant degree of
extra protection on rougher terrain, and protect the foot from
sunburn and colder temperatures. Many trail shoes are armed with
cushioned soles that are suitable for pavement pounding as well as
trail walking.
If you’re looking for footwear that is mainly
going to be used exploring cities and villages, but also needs to be
able to handle unsurfaced tracks for a day or so at a time, then a
synthetic or suede leather trail shoe will probably suit you
perfectly. However, if you are spending more time off-road than
on-road, a trekking boot will probably be a more appropriate
choice.
| |
|
trekking boots | |
getting the right
fit |
|
Footwear for trekking almost always comes in the
shape of a boot rather than a shoe, for the simple reason that
walking on uneven terrain dramatically increases the risk of a
twisted ankle. However, that does not mean boots need to feel as
though they’re made of lead. Designers have borrowed technology from
the running shoe industry in order to produce supportive boots that
feel as light as a feather.
Fabric trekking boots are
extremely popular and perform superbly in warm-weather destinations,
but they need to be backed with a waterproof and breathable membrane
in order to render them sufficiently weatherproof for use in damp
climates such as the UK. Trekking boots made from leather are often
perceived as being heavier than their fabric cousins. In truth,
modern leather boots are nearly as light as equivalent models made
from fabric. High grade leathers are also very weatherproof, making
waterproof membranes largely redundant.
The stiffest trekking
boots are compatible with eight and ten-point crampons. This extends
their usefulness, making them suitable for easy plods on snow-clad
peaks in the UK, as well as summer alpine glacier crossings.
| |
|
As I touched on in my introduction, finding the right
pair of boots is one thing; getting them to fit is quite another.
Ideally, you will want to buy your boots in person rather than by
mail order. Visiting a store will allow you to try on a number of
models and discover for yourself what feels right and what doesn’t.
It is quite likely that you will find that the lasts of some
manufacturers suit you better than others. This will help to narrow
down your choice to a handful of models.
Something else to
think about is your choice of sock. As you get closer to making a
decision, it might be worth choosing and buying a new pair of socks
to try on whilst making the final decision, especially if the sample
socks available in the store are heavily worn and matted. The way
that you lace your boots can make an enormous difference to how the
footwear feels. For example, if the boot is reluctant to bend across
the bridge of the foot, you might want to re-thread your laces so
that they do not cross over and place additional pressure on this
particular area. Take the time to experiment in the shop and find
out what works best for you.
If you are struggling to find a
comfortable fit, then perhaps Cotswold’s boot fitting service could
provide the solution. Specially trained members of staff will
measure your feet, fit the boots with supportive semi-orthotic
insoles and if necessary reduce the overall volume of the boot in
order to achieve the perfect fit.
In the unlikely event that
you have foot problems which are beyond the scope of this service,
your next port of call is likely to be podiatrist who will be able
to make a pair of customised orthotic insoles for you.
| |
|
mountaineering
boots | |
|
If you plan to use crampons on a regular basis,
then a fully-fledged mountaineering boot is a must-have. Some
designs have a semi-rigid sole, which retains a small degree of flex
in order to make walk-ins almost pleasurable. This type of boot
normally accepts a semi-rigid, classic 12-point crampon, which is
ideal for mixed alpine and Scottish winter routes, as well as higher
peaks in the Greater Ranges. However, if you have designs on steep
ice and highly technical routes, then you might decide to opt for a
totally stiff boot. These can accept completely rigid crampons,
which often come with a variety of front-pointing options. In the
last couple of years, manufacturers have taken the rigid concept
onto the next level, by producing boots with integral crampons for
ice climbing competitions.
Mountaineering boots are available
with a variety of uppers. Leather or synthetic is perfect for summer
alpine climbing; plastic (which comes supplied with removable,
insulated inner booties) is ideal for wet Scottish winter
mountaineering and 5000m to 6000m summits around the
world.
If you have your sights set on a Himalayan giant, or a
notoriously cold peak such as McKinley (Denali), then a specialised
boot with a built-in insulated gaiter and ultra-warm inner boot is
essential in order to stave off the extreme cold associated with
high altitudes.
| |
|
care & maintenance
| |
socks and gaiters |
|
Boots do not require much care, but a little
attention will prolong the useful life of your investment. At the
end of a trip, take a moment to wash off any mud and grit with warm
water and a semi-stiff brush. Avoid using detergents. Leather and
fabric uppers need to be treated occasionally with the appropriate
liquid, spray or hard wax treatment. Take care not to soften leather
uppers too much, or they will lose the foot they were originally
designed to provide. If your boots become saturated, stuff the
insides with newspaper to help draw out the moisture, but do not
place them next to a direct source of heat such as a radiator. If
you do, the upper will dry too quickly and could crack. (Since many
fabric boots are reinforced with suede leather, they should also be
stood away from sources of heat.) Plastic boots require no
attention, but inner boots can be removed completely in order to aid
the drying process.
Eventually, the soles of your boots will
wear down to a point at which they no longer supply sufficent grip.
When this happens, you might want to consider having the sole
replaced. Whether this is worth doing will largely depend on the
condition of the uppers. Companies such as Shoecare (tel: 01282
439109) and Feet First (tel: 01246 260795) specialise in replacing
soles with identical or similar treads. A new boot might prove to be
a better long-term investment if the upper is heavily worn.
| |
|
Socks can make or break the comfort of a boot,
and experts are divided on whether it is better to wear one or two
socks. Single sock proponents argue that one layer of fabric against
the skin allows the boot to fit more precisely, and halves the
number of socks that need to be carried (an important weight saving
consideration on longer trips). Two sock supporters state that the
double layer helps to reduce the risk of developing blisters, and
that the thinner inner sock can easily be washed and dried
overnight, improving hygiene.
Both schools are agreed on one
thing: that a cotton sock is a non-starter. Cotton absorbs sweat,
helping to keep skin damp. And damp skin is blister-prone skin;
something to be avoided at all costs. Blends of high grade wool and
modern synthetic fabrics have completely replaced cotton in walking
footwear. These materials rapidly wick sweat away from the skin,
helping to keep your feet dry. Advanced socks also feature padded
areas to help cushion the effects of day-long walks, as illustrated
below left:
| |
|
|
|
Gaiters are the un-sung heroes of wet weather
trekking and cold-weather mountaineering. Gaiters prevent rain and
snow from entering the top of the boot, and also protect part of the
boot’s upper from wear and tear.
All-over gaiters are
available for plastic mountaineering footwear and also some trekking
boots. These help to turn your footwear into something akin to a
wellington boot, making them suitable for river crossings or wading
through knee-deep snow. At the other end of the spectrum,
ultra-short gaiters can be fitted to boots and certain
multi-activity shoes in order to prevent small pebbles from entering
the top of the boot whilst descending
scree.
| |
All outdoor
activities are potentially hazardous. The information provided on this
site offers guidelines only, and is no substitute for personal instruction
from a qualified person. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the
accuracy of the information, no responsibility can be accepted by the
author or Cotswold Outdoor Ltd. for any errors or omissions. By choosing
to follow any of the advice contained in this leaflet, the reader accepts
personal responsibility for a) learning any techniques required, b) any
risks involved, and c) any damages or injuries of any kind - including
death - howsoever caused. Cover shot: Checking the way ahead on the
Trekker's Haute Route, between Chamonix and Zermatt. © Paul Deegan
& Flirt Design under license to Cotswold Outdoor Ltd.
|