How to Clean and Care for Your Boots

A good pair of walking boots 🥾can carry you over hundreds of miles of muddy trails, rocky ridgelines, and rain-soaked paths. Yet plenty of walkers still treat boot care as an afterthought, giving them a quick wipe before shoving them back in the cupboard until the next trip. That's a shame, because a few minutes of proper care after every walk can add years to a pair of boots and keep feet drier for longer. This guide covers exactly how to clean walking boots, dry them without damaging them, and reproof them so the waterproofing keeps working.

Mud, grit, and salt might look harmless once they've dried on the outside of a boot, but left alone they slowly wear down the materials. Grit works its way into stitching and seams, gradually loosening them over time. Salt from winter paths or coastal walks can dry out leather, making it stiff and prone to cracking.

Cleaning isn't just about looking after a boot's outer appearance either. A build-up of dirt on the upper can block the pores in breathable fabrics, reducing how well the boot lets moisture escape from inside. Regular cleaning keeps boots performing the way they were meant to, rather than slowly working against the wearer.

• Soft brush (old toothbrush or specialist boot brush)
• Medium-stiff brush for soles
• Mild soap or specialist boot cleaner (Nikwax, Granger’s, etc.)
• Lukewarm water
• Microfibre cloth or sponge
• Newspaper or absorbent paper towels
• Waterproofing treatment (cream, wax, or spray suited to your boot material)
• Optional: Absorba Balls or boot trees

Cleaning boots properly only takes a few extra minutes compared to a quick wipe, and the difference in longevity is well worth it.

• Remove laces to access all areas and prevent tangling.
• Take out the insoles to allow thorough cleaning and drying.
• Wash laces in warm, soapy water or a laundry bag in the washing machine.
• Rinse insoles and let them air dry- never use direct heat.

• Tap boots together outside to dislodge loose mud and stones.
• Brush off dried dirt with a soft brush, focusing on seams and eyelets.
• Use lukewarm water for stubborn dirt. Avoid hot water, which can damage adhesives and materials.

• Leather: Soft brush, damp cloth, leather cleaner
• Suede/Nubuck: Suede brush, minimal water, specialist cleaner
• Synthetic/Hybrid: Soft brush, mild soap, rinse well

• Rinse with lukewarm water and a drop of mild soap if needed.
• Do not soak-just a quick wipe is enough.
• Let dry thoroughly before reinserting insoles.

• Use a stiff brush or pointed tool to remove mud, stones, and debris from treads.
• Rinse under running water if necessary.

A clean cloth removes any standing water before the drying process begins.

Drying boots the wrong way causes more long-term damage than almost any other part of the care routine. Heat is the biggest risk here, since radiators, direct sunlight, and open fires can all dry leather and glue too quickly, leading to cracking, shrinking, or the sole separating from the upper.

The safest approach is slow, steady drying at room temperature, away from direct heat sources. Stuffing boots loosely with newspaper helps draw out moisture from the inside while holding the boot's shape as it dries. Swap the newspaper for a fresh, dry batch every few hours if the boots are particularly wet, since damp paper stops absorbing moisture once saturated.

Winter walking brings extra challenges, particularly road salt, which can dry out and damage leather faster than mud alone. Rinsing boots after any walk near gritted roads or coastal paths helps remove salt before it has a chance to settle into the material. Cold, damp conditions also mean boots often take longer to dry naturally, so building in extra drying time between winter walks is worth planning for.

Even the best waterproof boots lose some of their water resistance over time, usually through a mix of general wear, dirt build-up, and repeated exposure to UV light. Reproofing restores that water resistance and keeps feet drier on future walks.

Here's a simple reproofing routine to follow:

1. Clean the boots thoroughly first. Reproofing sprays and waxes work far better on a clean surface than one covered in dried mud or grime.
2. Check the boot is completely dry. Applying most reproofing products to a damp boot reduces how well the treatment absorbs and bonds.
3. Apply the right product for the material. Sprays generally suit fabric and synthetic uppers, while waxes and creams work best on leather.
4. Apply evenly across the whole upper. Covering the entire boot, not just visibly worn patches, keeps water resistance consistent all over.
5. Allow proper drying time. Most products need several hours, and sometimes overnight, to fully cure before the boots are used again.

• Leather: Conditioning cream, wax (e.g., Granger’s G-Wax, Nikwax Waterproof Cream)
• Suede/Nubuck: Specialist suede/nubuck spray or gel (e.g., Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel)
• Synthetic/Hybrid: Fabric & leather proof sprays (e.g., Nikwax Fabric & Leather Proof)

• Apply to damp boots (after cleaning, before fully dry) for best absorption.
• Use a soft cloth or applicator to spread cream, wax, or spray evenly, paying attention to seams and stitching.
• Let boots dry naturally after treatment.
• Check for beading: Water should form droplets on the surface when the treatment is effective.