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Camming Devices

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When it comes to trad climbing protection, camming devices are the cornerstone of a solid rack. This form of active climbing protection provides security in parallel or flared cracks where passive gear may not work. Placing reliable climbing cams gives you the confidence to push your grade on any rock face.

When building a trad rack, a standard set of cams from finger to hand-sizes is the starting point. A typical beginner rack includes 8 to 12 cams to cover a variety of crack widths. From there, you can add micro-cams for thin placements or double up on popular sizes for routes that demand them. Equip yourself with the right gear and ascend with assurance

Camming devices, also known as cams, are active protection tools used in trad climbing. They consist of spring-loaded lobes that expand to fit cracks and crevices in rock, providing secure anchor points for climbers. They are essential for protecting routes with parallel-sided or slightly flared cracks.

Choose cams based on the crack sizes you plan to climb. A standard rack typically includes small, medium, and large cams to cover a range of widths. Manufacturers like Black Diamond and Wild Country provide sizing charts to help match cams to specific crack dimensions.

Single-axle cams are lighter and more compact, ideal for weight-sensitive climbs. Double-axle cams, like Black Diamond Camalots, offer a wider expansion range and increased stability in placements, making them suitable for varied crack sizes.

Check the lobes for excessive wear or deformation, inspect the trigger wires for fraying or stiffness, and examine the sling for cuts or abrasion. Retire any cam showing signs of damage or compromised integrity.

A basic trad rack includes 8–12 cams covering finger-sized to hand-sized cracks. For larger cracks or off-widths, add bigger cams as needed. Double up on popular sizes if the route requires frequent placements.

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