An image of a man wearing a waterproof jacket in the rain

Waterproof Care Guide

Let’s be honest: British weather loves to keep us guessing. One minute it’s blue skies, the next it’s sideways rain. There’s nothing worse than heading out for a walk, a hike, or even just the school run, only to discover your trusty waterproof jacket isn’t quite as waterproof as you remember. 

Don’t worry, though. With a few simple steps, you can keep your kit performing brilliantly, season after season. This guide will walk you through the science, the steps, and the secrets of looking after your kit.

What is Waterproof Fabric?

Waterproof fabric is designed to stop rain, snow, and moisture from getting through to the layers underneath. It works by combining a protective outer shell with a waterproof membrane or coating, often supported by a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish on the surface. That outer finish helps water bead up and roll away, while the membrane or coating blocks moisture from passing through.

The important thing to remember is that waterproof fabric is not just about keeping water out. It also needs to let sweat and heat escape, so you stay dry from the inside as well as the outside. That is why good waterproof gear is often described as both waterproof and breathable.

Over time, dirt, body oils, and regular wear can reduce how well waterproof fabric performs. The garment may still be structurally sound, but if the outer layer stops shedding water properly, it will start to feel heavier, less comfortable, and less effective in wet weather.

Types of waterproof construction

Here, the outer fabric and membrane are bonded together, with a separate inner lining for added comfort. This makes the jacket feel softer and more wearable, which is why it is often a good choice for everyday use and lighter outdoor activity.

This construction bonds the outer fabric and waterproof membrane together, then adds a thin protective print on the inside instead of a full lining. It is a lighter, more packable option that works well when you want good weather protection without extra bulk.

All three layers are bonded together, creating the most durable and protective construction. This is the best option for tougher conditions and hard use, since it offers excellent performance without a loose lining getting in the way.


Why Waterproof Care Matters

Waterproof gear works hard, so it needs a bit of care to keep performing properly. Dirt, sweat, body oils, and regular wear can reduce breathability and prevent water from beading on the surface, so your jacket or trousers start to feel less effective over time.

The good news is that most waterproofs do not need complicated maintenance. In many cases, a proper clean, the right drying method, and an occasional reproof are enough to bring them back to life.

Understanding DWR and Membrane Technologies

DWR (Durable Water Repellent) works by lowering the surface tension of the fabric, causing water to bead and roll off. Traditional DWRs used PFCs (perfluorinated compounds), but many brands now use PFC-free alternatives like Bionic-Finish Eco for better environmental performance.

  • Microporous Membranes → (e.g., GORE-TEX, eVent) block water with tiny pores smaller than water droplets but large enough for vapour.
  • Monolithic Membranes → (e.g., Dermizax) use a solid, hydrophilic layer that transports moisture via molecular diffusion.

Even the best fabric will leak if seams aren’t sealed. Look for jackets with taped seams-strips of waterproof tape applied inside. Fewer seams and narrower tape mean lighter, more breathable jackets

When to Clean Them

You do not need to wash waterproof gear after every walk. In fact, over-washing can be just as unhelpful as not washing it at all. A good rule is to clean it when it starts to look dirty, feel less breathable, or stop repelling water as well as it should.

If the outer fabric is holding onto moisture instead of beading it off, that is a clear sign it needs attention. Long trips, muddy conditions, and heavy use can all speed that up.


waterproof gear

waterproof gear

How to Wash Your Waterproofs (Without Ruining Them)

When Should You Reproof Your Waterproofs?

If water stops beading on the surface and starts soaking into the outer layer, it is time to reproof. That does not necessarily mean the garment is no longer waterproof. It usually means the outer water-repellent finish has worn down, which can happen gradually through regular use, washing, and exposure to dirt and oils.

Reproofing restores that beading effect and helps the fabric perform properly again. You can usually choose between wash-in treatments and spray-on products, depending on the garment and your preference. Wash-in treatments are often easier for jackets and trousers that need a full refresh, while spray-on options can be useful if you want to target specific areas or avoid coating the entire garment.

The key is to reproof after cleaning, not before. Applying treatment to a dirty jacket or pair of trousers will not work as well because dirt and oils get in the way. Clean first, dry fully, then reproof.

  • Empty the pockets. You do not want to wash your car keys, loose change, or last week’s snack.
  • Fasten all zips and Velcro. This helps prevent snagging and reduces wear on both the garment and the washing machine drum.
  • Brush off mud and grit. A soft brush works well, especially around cuffs, hems, and seams where dirt tends to collect. The cleaner the garment is before it goes in, the better the wash will work.

If your waterproof has a removable hood or lining, check whether it should come off before washing. Always follow the care label if you are unsure, because some constructions need a slightly different approach.

  • Use a specialist cleaner (like Nikwax Tech Wash or Grangers Performance Wash). Ordinary detergent or fabric softener can wreck waterproofing; save those for your socks!
  • Gentle cycle, 30°C. Don’t go hotter; you don’t want to melt anything.
  • Don’t overload the machine. Two or three items at a time are perfect.
  • Extra rinse if you can. This gets rid of any leftover cleaner.
  • Air-dry on a hanger, away from direct heat or sunlight.
  • Tumble-dry on low heat (if the care label says it’s OK). The gentle heat helps reactivate the DWR coating.

Make sure the garment is fully dry before you store it or wear it again. Even slightly damp waterproofs can develop smells, and any lingering moisture can affect how well reproofing works later.

  • Reproof only after the garment has been cleaned and fully dried.
  • Apply reproofing when water no longer beads properly on the surface.
  • Use a wash-in treatment for an all-over refresh, or a spray-on product for more targeted application.
  • Follow the product instructions carefully, as different treatments work in slightly different ways.
  • If the care label allows it, a low-heat tumble dry after reproofing can help activate the finish.
  • Store waterproofs somewhere cool, dry, and well-ventilated.
  • Avoid leaving them stuffed in a bag or compressed for long periods.
  • Make sure they are completely dry before putting them away.
  • Keep them away from damp boot rooms, direct heat, and strong sunlight.
  • Good storage helps maintain performance and extends the life of the garment.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Using standard detergent or fabric softener. These can leave residues that reduce breathability and water repellency.
  • Washing on a hot cycle. High temperatures can damage waterproof coatings and fabric performance.
  • Overloading the machine. Waterproofs need room to move so they clean properly.
  • Skipping the care label. Different garments have different instructions, and ignoring them can shorten the life of the kit.
  • Drying too aggressively. Too much heat can damage the fabric, coating, or taped seams.
  • Reproofing before cleaning. Dirt and oils stop the treatment from working properly.
  • Storing waterproofs while damp. This can lead to smells, mildew, and long-term damage.
  • Leaving small damage untreated. A worn zip, loose seam, or damaged tape can quickly turn into a bigger problem.

Cleaning using Nikwax Tech Wash


  1. Run your washing machine on a hot cycle with nothing in it and check that the tray is clean. This gets rid of any detergent left from previous washes, which work against your garment's DWR.
  2. Gently rinse off any thick dirt by hand, or for stubborn stains apply some of the Tech Wash directly onto the garment with a sponge before washing. 
  3. Fasten all zips and velcro and place in the machine.
  4. Shake bottle, measure out the amount specified on the label, and pour into the washing machine drawer.
  5. Wash on a full cycle at 30°C/86°F or according to care label instructions.

Nikwax recommends washing no more than two items at a time. You should be able to wash reproofed kit 6-8 times with Nikwax Tech Wash before it requires reproofing with an appropriate Nikwax proofer.

Reproofing using Nikwax


Using Nikwax TX.Direct Wash-in:

Requires a washing machine.

  1. Ensure garment is clean after its wash. There's no need to dry the jacket before proofing.
  2. Use 100ml per garment (max 2 items)
  3. Shake bottle and pour into washing machine drawer
  4. Run 30°C synthetic cycle and slow spin
  5. Air dry or tumble dry on low settting if care label permits.


Using Nikwax TX.Direct Spray-On:

  1. Ensure garment is clean
  2. Protect working surface and lay clean, damp and fastened garment flat
  3. Shake bottle, hold 15cm/6 inches away, and spray evenly onto damp garment
  4. Wait for 2 minutes - remove any excess with a clean, damp cloth
  5. Check carefully to ensure no areas have been missed
  6. Air dry or tumble dry on low settting if care label permits




Cleaning using Grangers Performance Wash

  1. Ensure there is no detergent or fabric conditioner residue in your washing machine.
  2. Gently rinse off any thick dirt from your garment by hand, do up all zips and Velcro and place in the machine.
  3. Shake bottle then add 1 capful (50ml) into the washing machine drawer for 1 jacket. Add an extra capful for every 2 garments added.
  4. Wash on a full cycle at 30°C/86°F or according to care label instructions.
     

Watch video

NB: If you are short on time you can use Grangers Wash + Repel Clothing 2 in 1 instead which reproofs as well as cleans. However, heat activation is required for the DWR coating to be effective. After washing, tumble dry on low-medium heat, or gently apply heat using an iron or hairdryer. Watch video



Reproofing using Grangers

Using Grangers Clothing Repel (wash-in):

Requires a washing machine.

  1.  Ensure garment is clean but still damp
  2. Place garment in washing machine, close all zips and velcro straps
  3. Shake bottle and pour two capfuls (100ml) into the washing machin drawer. Add and extra capful  (50ml) for each additional garment being washed.
  4. Wash on a full cycle at 30°C/86°F or according to care label instructions
  5. Air-dry naturally or tumble dry if care label permits

Watch video


Using Grangers Performance Repel Plus (spray-on):

If your jacket is fabric lined, use a spray-on proofer to not coat the lining.

  1. Ensure garment is washed clean but still damp.
  2. Protect working surface and lay garment flat.
  3. Shake bottle and spray evenly from 10-15cm away, applying extra to high impact areas like the shoulders.
  4. Use a clean cloth to wipe away any excess.
  5. Air-dry or tumble dry if care label permits.

Watch video




FAQs

Wash them when it looks dirty, feel less breathable, or stop beading water properly.

No! Always use a specialist cleaner. Ordinary detergent and softener can ruin waterproofing.

Usually, yes-on low heat. But always check the care label first.

Waterproof gear keeps out heavy rain, with sealed seams and a membrane. Water-resistant will fend off a shower, but not a downpour.

Clean it first, then apply a wash-in or spray-on reproofing treatment according to the care label.

Use a cleaner made for waterproof or technical clothing, not standard detergent.

It may be dirty, worn, or in need of reproofing rather than fully damaged.

DWR is the surface treatment that helps water bead off the outside of the fabric.


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